Saint Esprit: (Holy Ghost). Dove shaped religious motif.

Sancy: Famous diamond on display at the Louvre.

Sapphire: Precious gemstone, blue in colour.

Sard: A brown-orange, translucent to semi-translucent variety of chalcedony.

Sardonyx: a brown and white banded variety of onyx often used for cameo and intaglio.

Satin Finish:  a technique that results in pearl-like luster on metal instead of high polish.

Satsuma Ware: Pottery from Satsuma which can be incorporated into jewellery.

Sautoir: Long necklace, falling below the waistline and ending with a tassel or pendant. Popular in the early 20th century.

Scarf pin: A brooch design specifically for wearing on a scarf or shawl or for fastening a scarf of shawl.

Scarab: Egyptian beetle motif.

Schlumberger (1907 – 1987): Tiffany jewellery designer.

Schreiner, Henry:  costume jewellery designer for Trigere, Norell and Dior in the 1940s; began his own firm in 1951 (known for kite shaped crystals).

Scintillation: the flashes of light reflected off the facts of a gem.

Scottish Jewellery (aka Pebble Jewellery): Scottish themed jewellery popular in Victorian era.

Scroll: Popular motif.

Seal:  Engraved (intaglio) stone or metal used to create an impression on wax or clay.

Seaman Schepps: American jeweller known for  Retro and 1950’s style jewellery.

Seed pearl: very small pearls, usually less than a one-quarter grain in weight and smaller than 2mm in size. Generally not perfectly round.

Setting: The place where a gemstone is attached to a piece of jewellery.

Sévigné: A bow shaped bodice ornament set with gemstones.

Shagreen: Skin of a Chinese ray or shark, often stained green but can be other colors.

Shah Diamond: Famous diamond, held at the Kremlin.

Shank: Hoop part of a ring.

Sheet Gold: very thin sheets of gold.

Shield Cut: a diamond cut.

Shreve & Company: San Francisco jeweller, known for Arts and Crafts designs.

Shreve, Crump and Low: possibly the oldest jeweller in America (since 1796).

Signet ring: a ring with a monogram, coat of arms or other symbol.

Silesian Wirework or Ironworks: Silesia was a location in Prussia that was one of the producers of fine, black, iron wirework jewellery. It was very similar to Berlin Iron, but was generally more intricately meshed and flexible.

Silver: white metallic element.

Silver filled: silver plate not less than .925 and at least 1/20th of the entire piece.

Silver-topped gold:  Silver backed by gold. Invented by James Cox, c. 1767.

Silver-plate:  base metal electroplated with fine silver.

Single cut: variation on Table Cut (diamond cut).

Skønvirke: ( “Beautiful Work.”) Danish jewelry made in  Arts & Crafts style, 1900 to 1925

Sleeper earring: usually a golden hoop earring of simple design, meant to keep the ear hole open.

Slide: A decorative fastener which slides onto a chain or ribbon. (Slide bracelet).

Smalti Filati: Opaque glass strips used to make tesserae for micro mosaics.

Smoky Quartz: brown-black or grey quartz. Scottish term is: cairngorm.  

Snake chain: (Brazilian chain) articulated chain designed to move like a snake. (Since 1850).

Snaps: 18th century earring fitting for women with none pierced earrings. They featured a hook that looped over the top of the ear.

Soldering: Method of joining metal parts by melting another metal with a lower melting temperature at the joining point.

Solitaire: (“alone”). A ring with a single, solitary diamond.

Spacer: (rondelle) Smaller beads inserted between the main beads on a necklace.

Spectroscope:  gemological instrument used for observing the spectra of gemstones.

Spinel: gemstone mineral group.

Spratling: silversmith known as the ‘Father of Mexican Silver’.

Spring ring: clasp with a spring mechanism which is not removable for soldering.

Stability: A gemstone’s resistance and ability to withstand chemical attack and heat.

Stamping Act: (USA amended in 1961) requires that gold or silver marked for quality must also be stamped with full name of maker.

Stanhope: miniature convex lens, binocular or monocular, that can be used to view tiny photographic images. Victorian novelty jewellery made use of this technology.

Star setting: gemstone placed into the center of an engraved star.

Station necklace: Necklace with beads at regular intervals.

Sterling: silver alloy of .925 parts of fine silver and .075 parts other metal (usually copper).

Sterlé, Pierre: French jeweller famous for his 1940’s and 1950’s designs.

Stickpin: a long pin, worn vertically, with a decorative top.

Stomacher: Large bodice ornament, usually triangular, worn between the neckline and the waistline. Also known as a ‘corsage ornament’.

Strap bracelet: a flat articulated “strap”design,  usually with decorative buckle.

Strap Necklace: Mesh chain with pendants suspended by a fringe of short, fine chain. Associated with Archaeological Revival.

Strap work: Decorative interlaced and overlapping bands resembling straps.

Strass: glass with high lead content.

Stuart crystals: flat carved rock crystal, capping a gold wire cipher and/or crown, on a background of hair work. Produced in support of the monarchy after the execution of King Charles I in 1649.

Studs: earrings that have a post that passes through the earlobe and are secured behind.

Styptor: an alloy of pewter and silver, used during the late 1930s and 1940s often for minaudieres.

Suffragist (Suffragette) Jewellery:  worn to show support of the women’s suffrage movement, often had the colours green, white and violet.

Suite: Set of jewellery (see parure).

Swag: Motif of foliage, fruit and flowers.

Swiss cut: diamond cut.

Swivel catch: jewellery safety catch, oval and tapered on one end and can rotate around a lateral axis.

Sévigné: is a type of bow brooch which was popular in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Surete (sûreté): stick pin with a fixed ornament on one end and a detachable ornament on the other. c. 1920. (See also jabot pin).

Symbology (Victorian): The Victorians wore jewellery which conveyed nuanced meaning, expressed sentiment and brought fortune.


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