B

 

Baguette Cut: type of gem cut, a long, elongated table cut.

Bail: loop of metal at top of pendant for putting chain through.

Bailey, Banks & Biddle: Jeweler from Philadelphia, first opened in 1832.

Bakelite:  variety of plastic, invented in 1909.

Band: circular ring.

Bandeau: type of tiara.

Bangle: type of bracelet with no clasp.

Bar Brooch: type of brooch that has a bar shape.

Baroque: period spanning from 1600 -1700. Can also refer to the Baroque style, particularly engraving.

Baroque pearls (also known as ‘Blister’ pearls): Pearls with irregular non-spherical shape.

Barrette: hair ornament resembling a brooch.

Base Metal: any non-precious metal used in jewelry.

Basket Mount: mount for gemstones that appears basket like.

Basse-Taille: type of enamel work.

Bath Metal: similar to pinchbeck but whiter with more zinc.

Bavette: a necklace comprised of multiple strands of different lengths with one clasp.

Bayadére:  a twisted rope necklace of seed pearls.

Bead:  small decorative object that has a hole in it for stringing.

Bead Chain: chain with small balls of metal joined by small lengths of wire, not longer than each bead in between.

Bead Setting: method of securing a faceted gemstone.

Beaded Wire: wire with bead-like decorative element.

Bearded Girdle: The girdle is the widest edge of a diamond. Bearding occurs when fine white lines flow over the girdle’s edge onto neighboring facets because of over polishing.

Beauty Pin: also called ‘handy pins’. Small pins used for securing veils, hats, lace and sleeves.

Belais:  American brothers who held the patent for white gold in the USA from late 1800s through the 1920s.

Belcher Chain (also called Cable Chain): the most classic kind of chain, made with interlocking links.

Belcher Mounting or ring: a flush ring setting, similar to a gypsy ring.

Belcher Shank: “D” shaped cross section shank.

Belle Époque: the era called ‘Edwardian’ in Britain was called Belle Époquein France.

Belperron: French jewelry designer, born 1900

Benedetto Pistrucci: 1784-1854. Gem and metal carver during the Neo-Classical era.

Benitoite: gemstone, usually blue, sometimes pink

Benoiton Chain: A benoiton is worn in the hair and consists of several chains which dangle from the hair and are then attached to the bodice. This was a brief fashion after the success of the comedy “La Famille Benoiton” by Victorien Sardouin in 1866.

Berlin Iron: type of jewelry made from iron.

Beryl:  mineral family with wide range of colors.

Bezel Setting:  setting used to hold stone in place.

Bi: Chinese jadeite disc, popular in West in 1920s.

Bib Necklace: necklace with gemstones that hang in the shape of a bib.

Bijouterie: a piece valued for the delicacy of its design as opposed to the value of its materials.

Billet-Doux:  jewelry with coded floral love message.

Birefringence: the strength of double refraction.

Birthstones: stones for each month of the year.

Biscuit: unglazed porcelain.

Black, Starr & Frost: American fine jewelers, started 1810.

Blackamoor: brooch created to resemble bust of African man or woman.

Blister pearl (also known as ‘Baroque’ pearl): a pearl with an irregular, non-spherical shape.

Blood Coral: another term for ‘oxblood’ coral or deep red coral.

Bloodstone: type of quartz, dark green with red or orange.

Bloom Finish: a way of dipping a karat gold item and creating a thin layer of high karat gold on the outer surface.

Blue Gold: a way of creating blue colored gold using arsenic or iron. Used in “gold á quatre couleurs.”

Bodice Brooch: brooch worn in center of bodice, sometimes sewn on.

Bodkin:  Renaissance hair pin.

Body Color: refers to pearls’ overall color.

Bog Oak: Wood that has been darkened and hardened (petrified) as a result of being immersed for many years in the bogs of Ireland. Not necessarily oak, can be pine or other woods.

Bombé: dome or rounded shaped jewelry

Bone: used in jewelry, often carved.

Book Chain (also called Venetian): A book chain resembles a book binding having interlocking, folded links of flat metal. It was popular in the Victorian era.

Boucheron: jewelry company, began 1858.

Boule: rough form of synthetic spinel or corundum

Boule ring: ring with a domed head, often pave set. 1935 fashion began.

Bow-tie: A darkened area resembling a bow-tie that is often found in fancy-shape diamond cuts. The bow-tie indicates how well cut the diamond is, lesser noticeable indicates a gem well cut, more noticeable, a poorer cut.

Button Pearl: A type of malformed pearl (flat on one side.)

Bracelet: jewelry worn on wrist

Bracteate: pendant based on ancient coins

Brass: alloy of copper and zinc

Braze: soldering or welding using brass.

Brazilian Chain: an articulated chain, designed to move like a snake (also called snaked chain). It was first introduced in 1850.

Briolette or Box Chain: A briolette or box is similar to a belcher chain except the links are tighter together and are square in shape.

Brick Link: used in bracelets or necklaces, rows of rectangular metal links are off-set every other row to look like brick masonry. Originally Victorian, revived in Retro jewelry.

Bright Cut: shiny, angled cuts in metal around set stones.

Bright Finish: mirror like finish on metal

Bright Sterling: Sterling Silver with a mirror like finish.

Brilliance: term used to quantify the brilliance of a gemstone.

Brilliant Cut: type of diamond cut

Briolette Cut: type of diamond cut

Brisé fans: fan with no leaf.

Britannia Metal:  a lead-free pewter alloy. It was first created in England in the 18th century.

Britannia Silver: a silver alloy made of 95.84% silver and 4.16% copper. Developed in England.

Bronze: an alloy of copper and tin.

Brooch: a piece of jewelry that can be attached to clothing or a hat by means of a pin.

Brown Émail: brown enamel.

Brunnian Link: a link made from several parts that hold together in such a way that when one link is removed, all other links detach as well.

Brush Finish: a matte finish on metal created by scratching with a wire brush.

Bruting: a process of diamond cutting using a lathe that allows for rounding.

Buccellati: Italian jewelry firm renowned for textural gold jewellery and silver objects. 1919 – present.

Buckle: a clasp that attaches at one end of a strap allowing the other end to pass back through. Used for securing clothing, shoes and other objects.

Buckle Bracelet: a bracelet that incorporates a buckle motif.

Bulgari: jewelry firm from Rome, 1884-present

Bulla: a lentil shaped ornament often worn as a pendant. Its origins date back to the Etruscansand it was popular during the 19th century archaeological revival.

Burmese Ruby: A rare variety of ruby, found only in Burma. Often also called‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby.

Burnished: a metal polishing process using a hardened steel tool called a burnisher, to produce a high shine and hardening. Can also be used with agate.

Butler Finish: the brightest of the brushed finishes, imitating a hand rubbed finish created over many years of polishing by the butler.

Button: small, often decorative, items used to secure two sides of an article of clothing.

Byzantine Chain: An intricate and complex chain that needs to be seen rather than described.


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