J

Jabot Pin: a tie pin often adorned with jewels. Popular in the early part of the 20th century.

Jade: this can either refer to nephrite or jadeite. Jadeite is more valuable. Known as a green gemstone, but comes in many colours.

Japanned: a finish in which the metal is coated in a shiny black coating, normally finished with a lacquer. (Also known as  ‘Japanesque’).

Japonism / Japonisme (french): the study of Japanese art.

Jelly Bean Pin: a style of figural brooch, often by Trifari or Coro. A clear lucite cabochon forms the ‘belly’ of the piece.

Jet:  fossilized had coal. Also known as gagate. Hard and light weight and is always a black color. Used in mourning jewelry during the Victorian period. There are many imitation jet pieces, usually made from black glass or plastics. True jet is warm to the touch.(‘French jet’ is actually black glass and can sometimes mistakenly be called ‘jet’.) ‘Whitby Jet’ is jet mined in Whitby, England. It is often highly polished and carved and is the most well known type of jet.

Juliana Jewellery: A style of jewelry, not a maker. Juliana pieces were designed by the DeLizza and Elster factory (D & E) and are highly sought after. Specific design characteristics only help to identify as they are never marked on the piece itself but may have paper hang tags.

Jump Ring:  round or oval ring of metal wire used to attach pendants, charms or other components to a chain.

Jaipur Enamel: Jaipur is a region of India that is the centre of the Indian jewelry industry. It is characterized by brightly colored enamels on both the front and back.

James Tassie: A London jewelers who developed a secret paste around 1766 with which he produced paste or glass replica intaglio gemstones from wax models. Commonly called “Tassies” on today’s market.

Jargon Nib: hat pin point protector. (Named after a Berlin police officer who sought to implement hat pin safety laws c. 1913).

Julius Cohen: New York Jeweller and Jewellery company.

Jou-Jou Or: 6 karat gold alloy

John Brogden: Victorian jewellery designer noted for his revival style, filigree and granulation work.

J.E. Caldwell & Co: American jewellery company, 1839 until present.

Jensen: Danish Arts and Crafts silversmith and jewellery designer.

Jadeite: Gemstone in the Jade family. Can be Green, White,  Yellow, Orange, Brown, Gray, Black, Lavender.

JAR: Contemporary French Jewellery company.

Jarretière:  strap bracelet made from links with a buckle fastening and mordant. There will sometimes also be a slide. This design first appeared in the mid 1800s and has had various revivals.

Jasper: Gemstone, member of chalcedony family. Can be any colour except black. Often spotted. Opaque or semi-translucent.

Jasperware: pottery developed by Josiah Wedgewood, usually blue with white relief although not always.

Jugendstil: an artistic style or design movement that arose in Germany around the mid-1890s


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