D

Daguerreotype: early type of photograph

Damascene: surface decoration process that involves the inlaying of gold wire or silver into an undercut groove in the surface of bronze, iron or steel.

Day and Night: Earrings with detachable bottom ornament (also called ‘Top and Drop’).

Demi-Hunter Watch: watch with a hinged case with a hole that allows the time to be seen without opening the case.

Diadem: A form of head ornament.

Diamond: type of gemstone.

Dissolved Hair: Human hair that has been chopped up and made into a paint or paste to be used for drawing pictures on ivory or porcelain plaques.

Deport: Mark meaning from France.

Demantoid: Variety of andradite garnet / color is generally green or yellow-green.

Dog Collar: A wide, jeweled necklace that was popularized by Alexandra, King Edward VII’s wife. (Late 1890s and until 1915.)

Double-Clip: A brooch that is made with removable components that can be worn joined together, or as separate brooches.

Doublet (or composite): A stone composed of two different stones sealed together.

Dress Clips: type of brooch that attaches with clip.

Dress Set: A jewelry suite designed for a gentleman’s evening attire. Usually includes one pair of cufflinks, together with shirt studs.

Decade Ring: ring with ten bumps around the shank for use as a prayer counter. Popular during 17th and 18th century.

Depose: Patent or registration in France.

Diaperwork: repeating ornamental pattern of one or more designs where one outline figures into the shape of the adjoining outline (eg. Diamond shapes or brickwork.)

Diaphaneity: transmittance of light through an object.

Dichroism: property of doubly refractive colored gemstoneswith two different colors in two different vibration planes due to differences of selection absorption in those planes.

Die Rolled: Die Rolled metal is put through a rolling machine with rollers (i.e. the die) that have been engraved with a design that is pressed into the metal as it passes through.

Die Stamped: Since 1769. A stamping die is used to cut shapes from a sheet of metal andsharp edged die is placed on the metal and hammered until it cuts through the underlying metal.

Die Struck: Jewelry formed by striking metal sheet in a die or between two dies. This compresses the metal into every crevice of the die.

Diffusion: Treatment to alter the color of gemstones (usually sapphires).

Dime Store Deco: Term used to describe the inexpensive fashion jewellery which became prevalent in the 1930s.

Diopside: Gemstone.

Dispersion: separation of white light into different colors.

Double Refraction: The property of splitting a single beam of light into two polarized beams which pass through a crystal at different speeds.

Doublé d’or: French term for rolled gold plate.

Doves of Pliny: mosaic described by Pliny 1st century AD.

Dragon’s Breath: Simulated Mexican fire opal made of glass (popular from 1910-1930)

Drawplate: Sheet of metal with graduated holes through which wire is pulled to reduce its circumference and strengthened it.

Drayson: Jewelry firm founded in 1936, Bond Street.

Drittel Gold: 8 karat gold alloy.

Druse: A surface covered with small projecting crystals.

Ductility: Property of metal which allows it to be worked without breaking.

Duette Pin: Dress clips that convert into a single brooch (attributed to Coro).

Dull Lustre: describes the luster of ivory.

Durability: quality of gemstones to withstand wear and tear.

Dyeing (or staining): applying pigments to gemstones.


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