Gem set ‘regard’ brooch, Early 19th century
Sotheby’s Lot 76, The Jewelry Collection of the Late Michael Wellby
Another lovely trend in the Georgian and Victorian eras was ‘acrostic’ jewelry. Acrostic jewelry was a beautifully subtle and poetic way of sending a sentimental message by way of the first letter of each stone, the first letter of which spelled out a word. Acrostic jewelry was a product of an era in love with poetry, when word play, coded messages and subtle verbal games fascinated the populace.
The simple yet intelligent designs of acrostic jewelry captured the imagination and made wonderful gifts for friends and lovers. Acrostic rings were particularly popular items and ‘Regards’ rings were even given as engagement rings during the Victorian era. During the Georgian years, padlocks with keys or hearts were often worn as pendants or brooches.
Acrostic jewelry is believed to have first been invented in Paris in the 1809 by Jean-Baptiste Mellerio (1765-1850), jeweler to the French aristocracy. The fashion soon took off also in England and America but remained especially popular in France. It is said that fashionable French women even wore particular stones whose beginning letters corresponded to the names of the weeks. Empress Marie Louise had three acrostic bracelets made by the jewelers Chaumet with messages of love between herself and Napoleon.
It’s important, when you come across a piece of antique jewelry with an arrangement of colored stones, to question whether there is a message being conveyed by way of the names of the stones. Sometimes, this might be quite difficult to interpret, especially if the piece comes from a non-English speaking country, so this is definitely something to be aware of. Also, certain stones have changed their names; for example the word for garnet used to be ‘vermeil’.
A few of the popular acrostic messages in jewelry were:
Diamond. Emerald. Amethyst or Aquamarine. Ruby.
Diamond. Emerald. Amethyst or Aquamarine. Ruby. Emerald. Sapphire. Tourmaline.
Ruby. Emerald. Garnet. Amethyst. Diamond.
(The word ‘regards’ had a much deeper and more passionate meaning in times past than we ascribe to it today.)
Jet, Emerald, Topaz, Amethyst, Iolite, Malachite, Emerald.
Fluorite. Ruby. Indicolite. Emerald. Nephrite. Diamond.
Lapis Luzuli. Opal. Vermeil. Emerald.
Amethyst. Diamond. Opal. Ruby. Emerald.
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